ACTING NATURAL IN DESPERATE SITUATIONS

My painting of a dancer

      Since we have been alluding to our desperado status for the past month or so, I thought I should tell all now that we are back in our own bed.

 

      We were happy go lucky travelers going thru the border crossing at Matamores, Mexico on Sunday, January 25th.  Had our passports at the ready.....but the police waved us on.  Well, on we went.  We didn't see an office open to stamp our passports or to issue us our visitors permit.

 

     So still farther we drove.  Nothing.

 

  We arrived in Tampico having almost forgotten that we might be "detained" (put in jail) or our car confiscated (taken away) because we were "undocumented".   But Pete had read all of the literature (?) put out by our State Department to try to prepare us for the worst so he continued to be concerned.

 

The hotel we stayed at in Tampico was loaded with Mexican Federal Police Officers because they were using it as a headquarters.  So Pete told an officer, in his best Spanish, about our situation and concerns.  The officer said, "No se preocupe", (don't worry about it).  So for a few minutes Pete let it go.  I didn't concern myself until later because the beach and sky and everything was so beautiful and everyone was so friendly.

 

On we went on our great adventure.  We saw and visited  all sorts of wonders which I reported in this blog.  We did stop and try to talk to a guy at an agriculture check but he was only concerned with frutas.  We also talked to a young man in the tourist information in Puebla to no avail.  No se preocupe. 

 

Then when we were visiting San Cristobal de las Casas for a week, I began to read the information about what might happen to us and found why Pete had been concerned off and on for the whole time.  He emailed the  American Embassy in Mexico City.  They got right back to tell us exactly what we already knew or had read.  No help there.  On the desperados went acting natural, being on the lam, ducking the authorities etc. 

Driving out of Chiapas we came upon an Immigration Office.  They were there for migrants from Guatemala not the U.S.  They were nice.  Looked over our passports, seemed concerned, called for a woman who spoke English and in the end said that they couldn't help us either. No se preocupe.

 

By this time the desperado act was wearing a bit thin and we decided that we would go on to Acapulco and then to our friends in Guadalajara and cut our trip short a little so that we could "face the consequences of our lack of action", sooner rather than later.  Law abiding citizens that we are.

 

We enjoyed the rest of our trip being on the lam and took only three days to get to the border at Lukeville, AZ.  We joined a rather long line of cars on the Mexican border leading to the US.  We waited anxiously on the Mexican side, passport and narrative about our unintentional undocumented status at the ready. 

 

We were not even slowed down at the Mexican border.. nor was anyone else asked to show permits or anything....., drove up to the U.S. border "free"-were asked by the U.S. border/immigration people for our passports and if we brought anything back.  We said "NO" and drove on quickly. 

 

The Mexican's didn't care.  They were happy to have us visit  and happy to see us go.  Gracious to the end. All that consternation for nothing but I would advise anyone else to be more responsible and get those documents by gosh!!!!

 

END OF THE STORY ABOUT THE TWO GREY HAIRED DESPERADOS.

GETTING CLOSER TO THE US BORDER

Finally able to get a photo in and I am not quite sure where this is.  Anyway it is a beautiful, colorful building.  We drove all the way from Acapulco to Uruapan.  The next day from Uruapan to Guadalajara.  It was an interesting drive.  One little town made wooden furniture.  one made guitars.  These were towns in the hill country with the traditional red and black signage that we saw in Pazcuaro and other places.  In one town the people were fixing their roads themselves and were asking cars for donations.  We gave.  Saw a cattle drive (small) with a man on horseback, a woman with a stick and 5 dogs. 

We arrived in Guadalajara at about 2 or so and were introduced to Steven and Cuquis' new baby (puppy).  His name is Colorado, he is 3 months old, he is a standard poodle, he is a red head and he is very smart and very cuddly and soft.  He already sits on command and comes to a whistle.  I wanted to dog nap him but he was carefully watched when we were getting ready to leave.

We had a wonderful visit with S & C as always but not often enough.  Cuquis told us , "No te preocupes" (don't worry) about our illegal situation.  Of course, I will call them if we run into trouble.  We love to visit with them.  Pete and Steven have such a running entertaining banter.  Cuquis is a wonderful generous hostess and shared Colorado with us-- no problem.

We left on Sunday.  At the most important point on our way to the highway, we were blocked for a foot race.  Took us and the GPS about 20 minutes to find a way around it but we did and made it all the way acroos the Tropic of Cancer to Culiacan.  On the way we saw a new BMW going about 110 mph passing us and then much later we saw a policecar having pulled the BMW over.  Still later the BMW blew by us again probably going even faster this time.  The roads were good.  We paid $958 pesos for tolls on that leg of the trip. 

Today, Monday, we drove from Culiacan to Hermosillo in about 7 and 1/2 hours.  Paid $425 pesos for tolls on some not so good roads but at least they were straight.  There were 3 military check points north of Los Moches.  On the border of most states there are also agriculture stops (zoosanitaria checks) and at one we had to give up our apple which was supposed to be our breakfast. 

We are staying tonight in a very nice motel and tomorrow we get to face the music.  Thanks for reading.  Leave a comment.



HEADING NORTH

Our trip from Puerto Escondido was slow but eventful. We didn't get run over by any cars on the very winding roads. We didn't run over the snake or the iguana or the skinny dog. Along the two lane highway were some of the beautiful and interesting trees that grow here. The huge Ceiba trees with their pods. Trees with yellow blossoms which are at the end of their limbs. Others with red blossoms. Wish I knew the names of all the plants that we see. There were bird's nest hanging down from the tree limbs probably weaver birds. Then we saw very large nests too. Don't know about them.

We had a week exchange at Acapulco Mayan Palace for March 14, so we decided we would ask them if we could just spend 2days now. To our surprise, they said we could take the whole week now. We are not going to stay the whole time but this is a wonderful family resort and a person could golf. The rooms are like a condo and very nene. There are several pools all connected, children's water play areas, amazingingly beautiful grounds and pretty good food.

We will travel to Zihuatanego tomorrow, Wednesday, and then make our way to Guadalajara where we hope our friends will put us up.

Wednesday, March 4th

We left Acapulco, traveled over pretty bad roads to near Zihuatanego and decided to continue on to Playa Azul. Before We got to Playa Azul and decided we could continue to Uruapan where we would stay two nights to regroup by getting hair cuts and washing the car before showing ourselves to our friends in Guadalajara. We went from the seashore (winding roads) to the dry mountains with the organ pipe cactus to the green green valley around Uruapan. We saw miles of coconut forests farms. Some homes had high stacks of coconut husks beside them because that is what they did for a living. Lots of papaya grown too.

At some points the views of the ocean were stunning. Waves crashing on the beach very close to the highway. It was amazing to see so much open and uninhabited area on the ocean side and through the mountains and beautiful mountain lakes. Mexico seems so crowded with people and more babies that it is surprising to notice the uninhabited parts.

We were on a toll road from Playa Azul until Uruapan so I will tell you my thoughts
about highways. Cuotas, toll roads, are like our freeways only they are not free. Libremientos, which in Spanish means "free", are free but not freeways they are what we would call local roads. Roads which go through every town and small spot in the road and which each have at least three topes to slow you down. BUT, Mexicans and I guess everyone else have rights it seems. They can ride bicycles on the freeway, toll roads, they can walk, they can ride a horse or a domkey,buses frequently stop too.

Speaking of transportation, the Mexicans have many choices, walking is done a lot by very young as well as berry old. You can ride many types of bicycle, there are cabs of all kinds including small three wheeled contraptions which look as if they were made in India, maybe they were. There are pickup trucks which are converted into people carriers, there are the regular taxis that are sometimes collectives, picking up and letting off people at every turn. You can drive an auto of your choice or a motorbike , a motor cycle, or a ATV all with or without your helmet, your choice. You can ride a horse or a donkey. Whatever, they are always busy and on the go. Mexico is moving, you only have to see how much the are doing on their roads and bridges, not to mention the wind and solar power along with the rich oil deposits.

PUERTO ESCONDIDO Another Day in Paradise



JADE MASK

 A huge change in climate occurred as we left San Cristobal, in two hours of mostly downhill driving we went from 58 degrees to 96 degrees. We finally got to where it is HOT!  Puerto Escondido is at least ten or twenty times larger than it was 25 years ago during our first visit. Very touristy, with more than 95% of the vacationers being Mexican families. When we do see someone who looks like a U.S. tourist, they generally turn out to be speaking German, French, or Italian. Could it be that the massively disproportionate propaganda campaign about the danger of cartel violence has really scared off the Americans? We hope not. 

We ate at the hotel this morning then drove a ways into town, parked and walked to the beach.  There were many fishing boats and many families.  You can go sports fishing here but most interesting is when a fishing boat comes in.  They turn their outboards on full and head straight toward the beach.  They land about 10 feet up on the sand where they unload their nets of fish.  It was a good catch but I am not sure what kind they were.  A type of dorado I think.

Bought a cool blouse and walked to the car in the 10 o'clock heat.  Now we are very comfortable in our hotel lobby. 

PUERTO ESCONDIDO AND STUFF

Our stay in Salina Cruz was short.  It was a very new hotel.  Very efficient and clean.   Our drive to Puerto Escondido was rather long because of the serpentine road and a few topes.  However we were here just a little after noon, checked in and Pete went for a swim.  I enjoyed sitting by the pool in the shade listening to the birds and watching them fly from palm tree to palm tree. We are at the Posada Real Puerto Escondido and we think it may be the place we stayed at 25 years ago. The town however is absolutely not the same in any way.  You just cant go back. 

Anyway the air is warm and a little humid.  We are close to the beach but it is down a cliff and seems far away although we can see it.  We drove into "town", there are plenty of restaurants and lots of people in the beach front area.  Too many for me today.  Maybe tomorrow early in the morning we will walk down and see what we can see.

We stopped at a restaurant "Paris" and had an early dinner as we have gotten used to eating only two meals a day.  I have to say that Mr. P looks great.  He has lost a bit of weight and has a light tan.   I on the other hand have only gotten more grey hair.  

So what we have fun.  On the way here we were joking about the fact that we are "undocumented" and will probably have self deport.  We hope that is all that happens but untill then we are "acting natural" whenever possible.  It is all a big mistake that WE MADE.  Not the first one in the 70or 80 years .  We are the old desperados continuing on our adventure. 

This evening is entirely worth being outlaws.  We are sitting here as the sun sets in the very mild and a bit humid air.  There is a very slight breeze.  Birds are chirping and making  pleasant noise.  People are sitting out near the edge of the property watching the sunset.  Children are quietly playing in the pool.  The restaurant behind us is readying for a late dinner.  Yep, it is so very pleasant.  We will remember this evening.

LEAVING SAN CRISTOBAL DE LAS CASAS

I know I have left out a lot about San Cristobal de las Casas.  We did so much.  The last couple of days were full.  The Kakaw Museum.  Told the history of chocolate and how it is and was used.  Chocolate or cacao comes in three types but they all have that hard outer shell which was one of the first vessels used for food and drink.  The beans and flower images were used in earrings, necklaces and other jewelry made out of jade in ancient Mayan times for those who could afford it.  The beans were used to trade for whatever you needed from rabbits to jade. 

We ordered a chocolate drink which was delicious but way, way too much chocolate.  We didn't eat again until 8 pm.

Yesterday, Thursday, our last day, we went on a trip to the Sumidero Canyon and boat ride.  We first looked down into the canyon from two view points taking photos, of course.  Then we drove down to the canyon floor where the river (lake now because of a dam) flowed.  After donning the required life preserver, we hopped in a boat along with about 10 other people.

It was spectacular with crocodiles, egrets, herons and we saw spider monkeys.  A geologist would just love the canyon sides.  Many colors and stripes of different rocks.  Some unusual formations from what might have once been a very large water fall.   The trip one way was about an hour.  The canyon walls were almost vertical and were about 3000 feet high. We had loaded up with sun screen and needed it.  Also put on bug spray and didn't need that.  Bugs love Pete.  Riding back was fun because we went really fast.  On the way  back the van stopped for what we thought was food, it was about 3:30, so we went and ate a little chicken mole.  Thank goodness we shared because that was not what was said.  The little town we stopped at was "mexican typical" and some of the people wanted to walk around the square, which was very large, and shop and look.  (First time our Spanish failed us.)  After stopping once again, this time for comida for real, so we ordered quesidillas and guacamole and limonada.  We weren't very hungry.  No one on the van spoke as much English as Pete spoke Spanish.  It worked out.This was the first tour that we took that had other people on it. All the other tours 5 or so we were the only participants.

Came back to the hotel and packed.  Also began to obsess about our illegality.  More about that later.  Checked out this morning after breakfast, drove through more mountains, up and down and around.  We drove at about 60 miles an hour for 45 minutes and there was constant windmills.  The wind was blowing so hard and constant it was sometimes difficult to stay on the road but those windmills must produce a huge amount of electricity. 

We are now in Salina Cruz, Oaxaca for the night

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Alter in House at Zinacantan

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